These nacelles have really been killing me. I think this is it though. Again rough shapes for now.
Also going to include some crap from last night since I have argued with myself (is that healthy?) over which style rear ends to give these things. Traditional more TOS like detail or maybe lean towards jjtrek? IE the glowing nozzle thing. Not a fan of the rocket nacelles, or the idea of thrust crap coming out of them. I just imagined it as spent plasma pollution holes.
Some small updates. Pretty much ready to start rounding crap off and working in the final details of all the bits. Only thing that is a bit ehh is the overall shape of that U shaped brace and when the main nacelle body tapers inward. ATM it only shows slightly from the sides and a lot int hat top notch. Original intent was for it to be quite obvious on the sides. BUT if I cut in vents etc it will do the job that way vs making the main body taper off too much elsewhere. Thinking as well that those nacelle mounts are not angled enough in the intake part (lower swoop bit) and too round.
Things are all rounded off etc but still some bits need pushing about. Some of it is how the uvws placed the plating but there are some wonky shapes still. Taking large breaks seems to have made me a bit rusty in places. . . . .
Also a lot of fooling around with ideas and stuff around those bussards.
I am loving it so far, is the red light at the top of the pylons where they connect to the nacelles impulse engines?
The only thing I am mixed about is the saucer (though I know its still a wip of course) I like it and think it looks very good, just so often when you see a re-connie you see a lot of change to everything below and behind the saucer, but not as much done to the saucer itself.
Though I know that it is harder as to keep its form with the original you have a delicate balance, just think it would be neat to see more change to it. (lots of words, sorry about that!)
Well, that was a PITA. Redid the cutout still TMPish but the geo is better and the curve is not so borked. I do not know how I ended up with the fail that was there previously. There are still some EHHHH bits to it and well I might be tossing out that whole area of the ship. Biggest issue is if I di patching crap into it to avoid loosing the upper hull work might be impossible since there is a HUGE gap in saves for that part of the original modeling. I shifted and reshaped edges so much that the original subdiv object does not line up anymore. GEH and the autobak files are most likely overwritten. I think it was because that early stage of modeling was so fast vs this last week or so.
Either way, I will be coming back to this area and chopping the hell out of it all to fit with what I sorta have planned for the ship's belly.
Sorry to hear that. The fantail is one of those design elements which really define the Constitution class.
But I have to admit, the new one looks a hell of a lot better than the previous cutout.
Yeah still not sure where the hell I got that steppy looking cutout from. But either case it has gone into polygon hell and wont be coming back.
Update, not much, again most of the time I spent doing other things (more like wasting time by mucking about on the net) I should just get to it and get serious and make some progress vs messing with the subdiv over and over and fooling with materials. The added crud and internal housing to the things the bussard domes come off from. It is all temp and likely to go away. Basically thinking up of visual clutter to put in those cowls and to make it look good and possibly add to the detail level when I go to cut holes in those cowls. Or maybe I should not cut the holes and avoid any style queues to the old re-connie? shrug.
Some of the close ups show I still have some subdiv foolery to fix, those upper bracket things are touching the cowling and do not mate up well as they did before some other "fixes" were made. The one rear side close up shows how the main nacelle tapers off. Hoped for the sides to show but I will likely cut that detail in if I retain it.
Really debating about clear bussards or slightly opaque (similar to what I had on the re-reboot) over the old standard nearly fully opaque. ATM they are ship hull glass material to cut down on render times though they still are not as fast as the plain white material. Also be aware what is inside the bussard domes is not final. Those bracket things are slated to be removed, I have not gotten around to making the vent slit things on the outer part of the housing yet so I have left them so far.
While I like the bussards the way you've got them so far they've got a Bayformers' vibe to them. How much of that detail do you think you'll end up getting rid of? I believe the semi-opaque over full opaque would suit the design better, IMO. Overall, I think this is your best Connie based on what I've seen so far. :thumb:
If you go the Bayformer route, gotta put some flames on there (actually, didn't someone do flames on an Enterprise here WAY back when?). I'm definitely digging how the plate lines flow into each other, though I think that disc-shape over the impulse engines isn't a match for the rest of it. I might have an idea for that, though...
I do not remember 50s like flames or even the modern versions of it but I do remember a candy apple red hotrod connie and a Flintstones one.
Impulse coil/stack is not complete, it has some issues related to the saucer rim and my goof of placing the impulse exhausts in the center of the saucer rim. They were meant to be placed biased more towards the top. There are some other issues but I wont write a wall of text on it. Right now it is a cobbled mess of subdiv parts and temp objects. (namely those vents and the actual dome part)
Pretty much everything under the bussard domes is temp. This includes that blue cone thing shapes within the domes and those brackets that inside as well as outside the housing. It will likely resemble those images I posted of the re-reboot in my last post. I am leaning towards a slightly opaque dome like pictured on those re-reboot images mostly to attempt to achieve the look intended of a device that glows due to collection of rarefied matter (namely hydrogen) vs a methodical array of lights and stuff. I am partial to those tos domes but I think departing from the look devised for a physical model is a step in the right direction. IE tossing the physical baggage of modeling in 3d something that is a physical trick. Yes, we need to keep reality in mind but the digital 3d world offers so many options.
More screwing around. There is some leakage I need to figure out though. Still not sure if this is the route I will go. If I do there will be more junk in there than what is there now.
Probably should take the time to replace this ugly full of banding back drop.
Not much progress busy being distracted and a day of painting over polygons. Tonight I got distracted shopping for a KB this logi is squeaking and groaning from the frame, really annoying. UGH. Lots of unseen stuff like collapsing the nacelle body and optimizing it and other crap.
Sounds familiar.
Which KB did you decide on? I recently replaced my G15 with a G510, because the ability to link those 18 customizable keys to program-specific profiles is simply priceless.
Well I am looking at this coolermaster storm something or other. I hate all the gamer crap on boards so extra keys and that stuff drive me away. Only issue is this board is a combined command and num keys. The non combined units are gamer lighting only (prefer lit boards since the letters and #s are often bits of plastic melted into the keys vs crap paint/stickers.) And has a huge fat cable. Considered Ducky and filco but those were all PITFA to locate without strange shipping or strange sellers. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129012
bonus is removable USB cable NKRO (probably have to install some craplet for that) And it is just inder 15" wide. So my fairly wide desk is less covered with crap. The tablet eats half the 48" space but depth I lack in 2 24"screens speakers KB mouse and tablet leave a bit of room for my coffee. Drawback is height (all mech boards are like this) noise I like the feel of blues but the noise yuck. And blue backlight, loath blue leds.
The one I had was this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126043
Got it at a soso discount hell of a lot cheaper than that. I cant fault it lasted 2+ years, maybe more where most last a year. The keys are bad since they are not the waxy plastics but a more fragile brittle stuff so when you go to pull keys to clear grime and hairs, the little nubs break off. My "." on the numb pad is my num lock button. But the worst of it is the board warps upward over time and the bits that hold the wrist rest start creaking and popping. Probably shoe goo it and use it as a bedroom board or move it over to another system that is using something older and crappier. Most of my boards get tossed cause they get ugly looking with what looks like an alien alphabet on the keys with all the scratched off stickers.
I would like one of those lcd ones so I can put foobar onto it on it's own but the space it would take is a bum, not to mention those are all shaft guided rubber bumper KBS that I loath. They keys jamb up over time and stick, and drive me NUTS. Last 5 or 6 boards for me have all be membrane with a laptop scissor style suspension. I like the short throw and lack of gumming up that that square/round shaft style guide gets after about 2weeks.
The real biggie is wrist height and the feel of the keys. I think it was the blues I liked over the others. I hated blacks, mushy eh. Browns I think were ok and reds felt kinda light. SO I dunno. I couldnt test any of the boards I looked at eh some months ago. The one I liked most at Frys was this god awful looking one with some crap FPS game all over it in gloss finish. I think it was battlefield something. It was bloody ugly. But the keys felt great.
I had hoped for USB2 hub, free up my monitor usb for fobs. But no loss really. I just have to consider how much having a combined keyset is going to annoy me. Still looking about but all the rest that I am liking are 130~180USD. Some like the hackers are 300+ Sadly a few that really looked good have that crappy L shaped enter key. Bloody never understood that crap. Crap up the other keys for something that is not that hard to hit. Not like your pinky is some swollen up club foot elephantiasis infested growth.
Really after something sans any grooves ribs or other crap just frame and keys.
ff tacticool, no. On my guns ok, maybe. On my KB Fuk no.
WTF is with that enter btn, no. Mostly EU versions do this but I have seen it here in the US.
Gobs of knobbly gunk and that stoopid L enter key.
Nooks crack and crannies to hold crap. This one sorta shows a real detractor. Some board have a 1" thick woven mesh wire that is like stiff as hell. So take hands off KB and it wil slid eoff cause that chord wants to stat straight!
Not bad but all the MMO crap on and half the keys are membrane keys. Not to for the $$ they want all the keys should be mech.
good greif. nooks crannies HUGE, glossy crap, that stoopid L enter, and I dont know what? Speakers?
Really like ducky and filco but I cannot find backlit ones through US sellers. Or people not ebay or amazon "merchants" IE crap satellite off shore stores who cant run a storefront. (refuse to give $$ to these sorts)
Woah wall of text but hey! Yeah I am a picky asswipe.
Hey Mad, check out the Razor Lycosa keyboard. backlit keys (blue, not your favorite color) but the keys have a rubberized coating, makes it easier to see the letters on the keys due to no glare from your standard shiny plastic.
Erm no I dislike rubberized bits they go all gooey over time or would be far worse than painted letters wearing off. I want a mechanical board this time in the hopes of it lasting longer than a few years. Sick of shopping every 1 to 2 years for a new board to find fewer and fewer viable options. I looked at the razor board but dislike all the gloss finishing everywhere not to mention all the useless bezels and bits sticking out.
so far I have narrowed it to some expensive ducky or filco(have not really found a real distributor of these to know colours and options vs models) backlit boards, or that CS storm tk whatever it was board. What I am fenced about is blue red or brown switches. Blue I worry the click will annoy me over time but I liked the feel. Hated blacks, sorta wishy on reds and browns.
Update:
Spent hours messing with these vanes. Do one thing look at it render it and dislike it and start over. UGH. Had it all lit up but it just was not working so I left it as this sans any glows. That central spine is likely getting replaced with a box modeled bit. As for the overall shape I am not sure which direction I will go on it. As for the nacelle itself I think it is time to break SAI out and start painting ideas down for the warp coils and other crap. The end caps I am at a bit of a standstill detail wise, as I started falling into the older detailing style. Again I need to sit down with SAI and work out some ideas. There is a lot of dawdling going on too since Im having to collapse the subdivision so lots of wishy washy fiddling about before committing to collapsing it to detail it.
Erm no I dislike rubberized bits they go all gooey over time or would be far worse than painted letters wearing off. I want a mechanical board this time in the hopes of it lasting longer than a few years. Sick of shopping every 1 to 2 years for a new board to find fewer and fewer viable options. I looked at the razor board but dislike all the gloss finishing everywhere not to mention all the useless bezels and bits sticking out.
A. It's not that kind of rubberized. I've used the keyboard for 3 something years now with no issues of the kind.
B. Did you check the link? what bezels and bits sticking out??? It's a pretty standard keyboard as far as form factor. The wrist support can even be removed if that's what you're referring to.
Posts
Also going to include some crap from last night since I have argued with myself (is that healthy?) over which style rear ends to give these things. Traditional more TOS like detail or maybe lean towards jjtrek? IE the glowing nozzle thing. Not a fan of the rocket nacelles, or the idea of thrust crap coming out of them. I just imagined it as spent plasma pollution holes.
It's fine, as long as it doesn't come to blows.
I was doubtful about the nacelles at first, but now I like them.
Also a lot of fooling around with ideas and stuff around those bussards.
The only thing I am mixed about is the saucer (though I know its still a wip of course) I like it and think it looks very good, just so often when you see a re-connie you see a lot of change to everything below and behind the saucer, but not as much done to the saucer itself.
Though I know that it is harder as to keep its form with the original you have a delicate balance, just think it would be neat to see more change to it. (lots of words, sorry about that!)
Either way, I will be coming back to this area and chopping the hell out of it all to fit with what I sorta have planned for the ship's belly.
But I have to admit, the new one looks a hell of a lot better than the previous cutout.
Update, not much, again most of the time I spent doing other things (more like wasting time by mucking about on the net) I should just get to it and get serious and make some progress vs messing with the subdiv over and over and fooling with materials. The added crud and internal housing to the things the bussard domes come off from. It is all temp and likely to go away. Basically thinking up of visual clutter to put in those cowls and to make it look good and possibly add to the detail level when I go to cut holes in those cowls. Or maybe I should not cut the holes and avoid any style queues to the old re-connie? shrug.
Some of the close ups show I still have some subdiv foolery to fix, those upper bracket things are touching the cowling and do not mate up well as they did before some other "fixes" were made. The one rear side close up shows how the main nacelle tapers off. Hoped for the sides to show but I will likely cut that detail in if I retain it.
Really debating about clear bussards or slightly opaque (similar to what I had on the re-reboot) over the old standard nearly fully opaque. ATM they are ship hull glass material to cut down on render times though they still are not as fast as the plain white material. Also be aware what is inside the bussard domes is not final. Those bracket things are slated to be removed, I have not gotten around to making the vent slit things on the outer part of the housing yet so I have left them so far.
Impulse coil/stack is not complete, it has some issues related to the saucer rim and my goof of placing the impulse exhausts in the center of the saucer rim. They were meant to be placed biased more towards the top. There are some other issues but I wont write a wall of text on it. Right now it is a cobbled mess of subdiv parts and temp objects. (namely those vents and the actual dome part)
Pretty much everything under the bussard domes is temp. This includes that blue cone thing shapes within the domes and those brackets that inside as well as outside the housing. It will likely resemble those images I posted of the re-reboot in my last post. I am leaning towards a slightly opaque dome like pictured on those re-reboot images mostly to attempt to achieve the look intended of a device that glows due to collection of rarefied matter (namely hydrogen) vs a methodical array of lights and stuff. I am partial to those tos domes but I think departing from the look devised for a physical model is a step in the right direction. IE tossing the physical baggage of modeling in 3d something that is a physical trick. Yes, we need to keep reality in mind but the digital 3d world offers so many options.
oops forgot to click post.
Probably should take the time to replace this ugly full of banding back drop.
Books: [ Ashes of Alour-Tan | Embers of Alour-Tan ] | Blender Tutorials | Blog
And nice shot of the overall ship too.
:thumb:
Those cylinders remind me of control rods in a nuclear reactor. Do these extend in a similar way?
Which KB did you decide on? I recently replaced my G15 with a G510, because the ability to link those 18 customizable keys to program-specific profiles is simply priceless.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129012
bonus is removable USB cable NKRO (probably have to install some craplet for that) And it is just inder 15" wide. So my fairly wide desk is less covered with crap. The tablet eats half the 48" space but depth I lack in 2 24"screens speakers KB mouse and tablet leave a bit of room for my coffee. Drawback is height (all mech boards are like this) noise I like the feel of blues but the noise yuck. And blue backlight, loath blue leds.
The one I had was this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126043
Got it at a soso discount hell of a lot cheaper than that. I cant fault it lasted 2+ years, maybe more where most last a year. The keys are bad since they are not the waxy plastics but a more fragile brittle stuff so when you go to pull keys to clear grime and hairs, the little nubs break off. My "." on the numb pad is my num lock button. But the worst of it is the board warps upward over time and the bits that hold the wrist rest start creaking and popping. Probably shoe goo it and use it as a bedroom board or move it over to another system that is using something older and crappier. Most of my boards get tossed cause they get ugly looking with what looks like an alien alphabet on the keys with all the scratched off stickers.
I would like one of those lcd ones so I can put foobar onto it on it's own but the space it would take is a bum, not to mention those are all shaft guided rubber bumper KBS that I loath. They keys jamb up over time and stick, and drive me NUTS. Last 5 or 6 boards for me have all be membrane with a laptop scissor style suspension. I like the short throw and lack of gumming up that that square/round shaft style guide gets after about 2weeks.
The real biggie is wrist height and the feel of the keys. I think it was the blues I liked over the others. I hated blacks, mushy eh. Browns I think were ok and reds felt kinda light. SO I dunno. I couldnt test any of the boards I looked at eh some months ago. The one I liked most at Frys was this god awful looking one with some crap FPS game all over it in gloss finish. I think it was battlefield something. It was bloody ugly. But the keys felt great.
I had hoped for USB2 hub, free up my monitor usb for fobs. But no loss really. I just have to consider how much having a combined keyset is going to annoy me. Still looking about but all the rest that I am liking are 130~180USD. Some like the hackers are 300+ Sadly a few that really looked good have that crappy L shaped enter key. Bloody never understood that crap. Crap up the other keys for something that is not that hard to hit. Not like your pinky is some swollen up club foot elephantiasis infested growth.
Really after something sans any grooves ribs or other crap just frame and keys.
ff tacticool, no. On my guns ok, maybe. On my KB Fuk no.
WTF is with that enter btn, no. Mostly EU versions do this but I have seen it here in the US.
Gobs of knobbly gunk and that stoopid L enter key.
Nooks crack and crannies to hold crap. This one sorta shows a real detractor. Some board have a 1" thick woven mesh wire that is like stiff as hell. So take hands off KB and it wil slid eoff cause that chord wants to stat straight!
Not bad but all the MMO crap on and half the keys are membrane keys. Not to for the $$ they want all the keys should be mech.
good greif. nooks crannies HUGE, glossy crap, that stoopid L enter, and I dont know what? Speakers?
Really like ducky and filco but I cannot find backlit ones through US sellers. Or people not ebay or amazon "merchants" IE crap satellite off shore stores who cant run a storefront. (refuse to give $$ to these sorts)
Woah wall of text but hey! Yeah I am a picky asswipe.
so far I have narrowed it to some expensive ducky or filco(have not really found a real distributor of these to know colours and options vs models) backlit boards, or that CS storm tk whatever it was board. What I am fenced about is blue red or brown switches. Blue I worry the click will annoy me over time but I liked the feel. Hated blacks, sorta wishy on reds and browns.
Update:
Spent hours messing with these vanes. Do one thing look at it render it and dislike it and start over. UGH. Had it all lit up but it just was not working so I left it as this sans any glows. That central spine is likely getting replaced with a box modeled bit. As for the overall shape I am not sure which direction I will go on it. As for the nacelle itself I think it is time to break SAI out and start painting ideas down for the warp coils and other crap. The end caps I am at a bit of a standstill detail wise, as I started falling into the older detailing style. Again I need to sit down with SAI and work out some ideas. There is a lot of dawdling going on too since Im having to collapse the subdivision so lots of wishy washy fiddling about before committing to collapsing it to detail it.
B. Did you check the link? what bezels and bits sticking out??? It's a pretty standard keyboard as far as form factor. The wrist support can even be removed if that's what you're referring to.