Wow. That was good. Blender has a deform lattice that I never never use. I did my BC by using subsurfs. I'm 90% happy with it and cringe at the idea of doing it again. Maybe I'll try it this way.
Next? Well, work from top to bottom, front to back.
ScifiEric - this is one of the BEST tutorials I've seen on SFM!
I've been a truespace user for about three years, and I've never thought of your ingenious way of making the three grooves around the bottom of the saucer! Now I'm just going to have to start yet another constitution just so I can do that!
Wow. That was good. Blender has a deform lattice that I never never use. I did my BC by using subsurfs. I'm 90% happy with it and cringe at the idea of doing it again. Maybe I'll try it this way.
Next? Well, work from top to bottom, front to back.
Holy heck! I'm glad you liked it! Coming from you Tallguy, that's quite a compliment. You do have perhaps the most accurate USS Enterprise I've ever seen. I still think back to the images of that beauty and didn't you give yours to 4MM for a couple of images? They were unreal.
You'd like to think so, wouldn't you? It's one of the bits that I have the roughest time with since it is not a standard shape. It's rounded front and back, it's wider at the front than the back and it's LONGER on top than on bottom. TrueSpace has a VERY bad time once you do all that and then start cutting out the windows. You get segmentation every time. I'm trying to find a way around it. About the only choices I can find that work are:
1) Multiple sections that are independant and only glued together.
2) A not-quite-accurate neck that is straighter and can be assembled from primitives.
3) Make the neck the right way and then use textures for the windows.
ScifiEric - this is one of the BEST tutorials I've seen on SFM!
I've been a truespace user for about three years, and I've never thought of your ingenious way of making the three grooves around the bottom of the saucer! Now I'm just going to have to start yet another constitution just so I can do that!
Wow, that IS gratifying. Thanks Forcemaster2000!
I didn't know you used TrueSpace. I really appreciate the compliment. I enjoy being a part of this online community and wanted to find a way to contribute. A few new users asked how to make this or that and I figured, why not a proper tutorial?
As for the grooves, necessity is one nasty mother... uh, that is, necessity is the mother of invention. I think I've heard that one before! LOL
My first attempt was completely different. I think I created a large, round polygon and used the Sweep tool to create my first saucer. Worked great right up until I rendered it and found massive errors! LOL!
My latest is attempt 5 or 6 for me. My first was an angled cylinder with cones added for the top and bottom. It sucked. My latest saucer is the first where I didn't use that method. The one before was similar, but it was still a cylinder with deformed spheres booleansed into it and it has a lot of distortions. I still have it to use for long shots because it's lower poly and renders more quickly, but my latest is the first I'm happy with.
And, whenever I build a new Connie, I have to build the Scout/Destroyer and Transport/Tug from the tech manual by franz joseph because they use the same saucer and nacelles.
It's interesting hearing various people's take on the saucer. I've always used some sort of "spin" function, much like in SFEs tutorial, since back in my CyberCad days on the Atari ST.
My latest is attempt 5 or 6 for me. My first was an angled cylinder with cones added for the top and bottom. It sucked. My latest saucer is the first where I didn't use that method. The one before was similar, but it was still a cylinder with deformed spheres booleansed into it and it has a lot of distortions. I still have it to use for long shots because it's lower poly and renders more quickly, but my latest is the first I'm happy with.
Been there, done that! LOL
I first downloaded a trial version of TrueSpace 3 years ago and made my first, albiet temporary, Enterprise in that fashion. It was a lot of work and I made a 10 second animation ... and I was hooked. I had to buy it!
Yep, I paid for the version that you can now get for free.
And, whenever I build a new Connie, I have to build the Scout/Destroyer and Transport/Tug from the tech manual by franz joseph because they use the same saucer and nacelles.
I haven't done that yet ... and only because I never saw it on the show. I'm insane, I know.
It's interesting hearing various people's take on the saucer. I've always used some sort of "spin" function, much like in SFEs tutorial, since back in my CyberCad days on the Atari ST.
Wow, that DOES go back a way. I didn't know that the Atari ST HAD the ability to run a 3D program or indeed a program to run!
Thanks for contributing and I totally agree with how interesting it is to see how others solve problems. I read as much as I can about other people's work, even if I don't have the same tools in my application or a different application altogether. Of course, that's how I learned many of these tools. They have similar tools with many 3D packages.
I'd be fascinated by reading how you built the Enterprise in Blender since I find Blender unfathomable!
I haven't done that yet ... and only because I never saw it on the show. I'm insane, I know.
Not insane, just a little nutty.
The Destroyers have always held an interest for me because the first Trek book I read was Dreadnought! by Diane Carey and she has at least one Destroyer in that book. And, since I have the manual, I like to do the whole fleet. Right now I have the ships except for the Dreadnought (I started but didn't finish) and I have the space station from that book modeled also. I used to have the TOS shuttle but it went into nothingness when another computer of mine died.
You'd like to think so, wouldn't you? It's one of the bits that I have the roughest time with since it is not a standard shape. It's rounded front and back, it's wider at the front than the back and it's LONGER on top than on bottom. TrueSpace has a VERY bad time once you do all that and then start cutting out the windows. You get segmentation every time. I'm trying to find a way around it. About the only choices I can find that work are:
1) Multiple sections that are independant and only glued together.
2) A not-quite-accurate neck that is straighter and can be assembled from primitives.
3) Make the neck the right way and then use textures for the windows.
here's how I made the neck: (explained in the file)
I have yet to see how cutting the windows will affect it
here's how I made the neck: (explained in the file)
I have yet to see how cutting the windows will affect it
You giving me a run for my money backstept? LOL!
Just wait. What version of TrueSpace are you using? If you're using 3.2, you'll find that when you cut in the windows, you will get mesh errors that become apparent when you render.
Just wait. What version of TrueSpace are you using? If you're using 3.2, you'll find that when you cut in the windows, you will get mesh errors that become apparent when you render.
That's for certain. It's even worse when you texture it.
I've loaded the same workspace background as the B&C deck tutorial. Next, to load a sphere primitive.
I changed the sphere primitive settings to 26 x 100 so that even close up, we should get no segmentation.
Now I position the sphere and resize either my viewing area or the sphere itself to fit the bridge dimensions.
Next, load a primitive cube and turn on your Grid Mode.
Highlight your bridge sphere and then use Object Subtraction to remove a little less than half of the sphere, just below where the bridge will join the B&C deck.
Now we will use the resize tool to squish down the bridge dome a little bit.
Right mouse click on the Resize Tool and deactivate the X and Z planes.
Toggle off the Grid Mode and bring down the bridge sphere to almost meet the deck plans. If you bring the sphere all the way down, you will find that it has taken the wrong shape. This will be recorded as an animatible action so we have to get rid of that recording.
Click on the sculpt surface tool and click "yes" to delete the actions.
Now, switch to the Deformation Tool we used in the last tutorial.
Just wait. What version of TrueSpace are you using? If you're using 3.2, you'll find that when you cut in the windows, you will get mesh errors that become apparent when you render.
I'm using Five.Oh
we'll see how it goes
I'm blocking the secondary hull now. I'll give my perspective on it when you get to it
Click the top center of the bridge sphere and lower it until it conforms to the bridge dome plans.
I've always wanted to do this because I think it will add that tiny little bit of detail that makes something look like the studio model.
Right mouse click on the cylinder primitive and increase the longitude setting to 100. Left click the cylinder to create the primitive.
Toggle the grid mode on and choose the resize object tool.
When you resize the cylinder, remember to keep the left AND right mouse button depressed to maintain proportions.
If you need to make minute adjustments, you may right click on the grid mode tool to access it's options. I set mine to 0.01 and reduced my cylinder to be JUST a bit wider than the top sensor dome.
That's great and I was only kidding of course. One of the great things about this place is that we're pretty much free to do whatever we want, so long as we don't hurt someone else or slander or steal. (Boy, where did all THAT come from?)
Now, line up the cylinder so that it just slightly bites into the top of the bridge dome. Select your bridge dome and use the Object Subtraction tool in order to cut into the top of the bridge structure.
Now, here's why we went to all this trouble.
We now get a "lip" to the top of the bridge. Now to create the sensor dome.
Call up another sphere primitive, resize and reposition your primitive to meet the drawings of the sensor AND make certain that it falls inside of our "lip".
Now to load a cube primitive and use the Object Subtraction tool to remove most of the sensor dome below the bridge.
Okay, you would think our bridge was done ... but you'd be wrong. In for a penny, in for a pound I always say. Of course people on the elevator always look at me funny when I say that. So, on with the tutorial.
Create another sphere, then choose the deformation tool. Right click the deformation tool to select it's options and deselect the X and Z planes. Click the top center of your new sphere and toggle the grid mode on. Push the highlighted sphere point up by one unit. It will resemble a Christmas Tree light (if you are as old as I am and remember actual lights instead of Christmas LED's)
Select the Object Selection tool to convert your light to an object. Keep the grid toggled on and select the Resize Object tool. Right mouse click the Resize Object tool and reset it to default settings of 0.2 for all three axis.
Hold down both mouse keys and shrink the light down to the size of the small dot (running light) on the side of the bridge.
Keep the grid mode on and select the Rotate Object tool. Select a forward view in one of the small New Perspetive windows.
Hold down your right mouse key and push up or pull down. Your light will spin 45 degrees by default. Move the light to one side of the bridge.
You have just moved your running light to the side of the bridge, like so:
Now, left click the Copy tool.
Turn off your grid mode and left click the Move Object tool. Right mouse click the Move Object tool and turn off the Y and Z axis. Now, left click and move the duplicate light to the opposite side of the bridge. Turn on your grid mode then select the rotate object tool. Right mouse click and pull down twice to rotate the light in the opposite direction.
I chose to make my cylindar 50 segments for smoothness and resized the object with the grid mode toggled on. Then I moved the cylindar into place using the side view tool.
Once in place and slightly lower than the actual elevator plans, right mouse click on the Bevel Tool.
Leave the Bevel distance (top tool) at 0.01 but change the Bevel angle from 45 degrees to 20 degrees.
Left click once on the top of the elevator shaft (edit points will turn green) and then left click once on the bevel tool. You will see the top of the elevator has risen slightly and reduced it's diameter slightly. Pretty good, but not enough.
Left click the Object Selection tool to complete the bevel and return the elevator to an object.
Right mouse click the Bevel tool again and change the angle to 40 degrees. There's nothing you can really do about the distance at this point, so leave it at 0.01.
Left click the newly beveled top of the elevator and then left click the bevel tool.
Left mouse click on the Point: Edit Faces tool.
Right mouse click on the same tool and turn off the Z and X planes. Now, lower the newly beveled roof of the elevator about half the distance that it had moved on its own.
Look at the render of the elevator above. The top "lip" of the elevator shaft is extraordinarily smooth! It looks like someone has taken a wooden dowel and sanded it. This is very much like what the original studio model looks like.
Choose the Object Selection tool to convert the editable points into an object.
Now, I have moved all the objects we have created to the same scene and used Alan's drawings to place everything together.
Here are the results thus far:
First I moved the bridge assembly (after gluing them all together and saving them as an object) to the B&C Deck scene. Positioned them, glued them together and saved them as a new object.
Here is how it compares thus far to the real thing.
lol I never save . . . seriously.
I use an object library to hold all my parts for a particular project.
just right click>insert or replace
it's got nice little rendered icons so I know what part is which
of course that's a TS5 feature that 3.2 does not have
Posts
Next? Well, work from top to bottom, front to back.
Various Work: U.S.S. Constellation - Matt Jefferies Concept Shuttle
I've been a truespace user for about three years, and I've never thought of your ingenious way of making the three grooves around the bottom of the saucer! Now I'm just going to have to start yet another constitution just so I can do that!
You'd like to think so, wouldn't you? It's one of the bits that I have the roughest time with since it is not a standard shape. It's rounded front and back, it's wider at the front than the back and it's LONGER on top than on bottom. TrueSpace has a VERY bad time once you do all that and then start cutting out the windows. You get segmentation every time. I'm trying to find a way around it. About the only choices I can find that work are:
1) Multiple sections that are independant and only glued together.
2) A not-quite-accurate neck that is straighter and can be assembled from primitives.
3) Make the neck the right way and then use textures for the windows. Thanks CSpaced. I love your signature!
I didn't know you used TrueSpace. I really appreciate the compliment. I enjoy being a part of this online community and wanted to find a way to contribute. A few new users asked how to make this or that and I figured, why not a proper tutorial?
As for the grooves, necessity is one nasty mother... uh, that is, necessity is the mother of invention. I think I've heard that one before! LOL
My latest is attempt 5 or 6 for me. My first was an angled cylinder with cones added for the top and bottom. It sucked. My latest saucer is the first where I didn't use that method. The one before was similar, but it was still a cylinder with deformed spheres booleansed into it and it has a lot of distortions. I still have it to use for long shots because it's lower poly and renders more quickly, but my latest is the first I'm happy with.
And, whenever I build a new Connie, I have to build the Scout/Destroyer and Transport/Tug from the tech manual by franz joseph because they use the same saucer and nacelles.
Various Work: U.S.S. Constellation - Matt Jefferies Concept Shuttle
I first downloaded a trial version of TrueSpace 3 years ago and made my first, albiet temporary, Enterprise in that fashion. It was a lot of work and I made a 10 second animation ... and I was hooked. I had to buy it!
Yep, I paid for the version that you can now get for free. I haven't done that yet ... and only because I never saw it on the show. I'm insane, I know.
Thanks for contributing and I totally agree with how interesting it is to see how others solve problems. I read as much as I can about other people's work, even if I don't have the same tools in my application or a different application altogether. Of course, that's how I learned many of these tools. They have similar tools with many 3D packages.
I'd be fascinated by reading how you built the Enterprise in Blender since I find Blender unfathomable!
Not insane, just a little nutty.
The Destroyers have always held an interest for me because the first Trek book I read was Dreadnought! by Diane Carey and she has at least one Destroyer in that book. And, since I have the manual, I like to do the whole fleet. Right now I have the ships except for the Dreadnought (I started but didn't finish) and I have the space station from that book modeled also. I used to have the TOS shuttle but it went into nothingness when another computer of mine died.
I have yet to see how cutting the windows will affect it
Just wait. What version of TrueSpace are you using? If you're using 3.2, you'll find that when you cut in the windows, you will get mesh errors that become apparent when you render.
That's for certain. It's even worse when you texture it.
The Bridge of the Enterprise.
I've loaded the same workspace background as the B&C deck tutorial. Next, to load a sphere primitive.
I changed the sphere primitive settings to 26 x 100 so that even close up, we should get no segmentation.
Now I position the sphere and resize either my viewing area or the sphere itself to fit the bridge dimensions.
Next, load a primitive cube and turn on your Grid Mode.
Highlight your bridge sphere and then use Object Subtraction to remove a little less than half of the sphere, just below where the bridge will join the B&C deck.
Now we will use the resize tool to squish down the bridge dome a little bit.
Right mouse click on the Resize Tool and deactivate the X and Z planes.
Toggle off the Grid Mode and bring down the bridge sphere to almost meet the deck plans. If you bring the sphere all the way down, you will find that it has taken the wrong shape. This will be recorded as an animatible action so we have to get rid of that recording.
Click on the sculpt surface tool and click "yes" to delete the actions.
Now, switch to the Deformation Tool we used in the last tutorial.
I just wanted to contribute I'm using Five.Oh
we'll see how it goes
I'm blocking the secondary hull now. I'll give my perspective on it when you get to it
I've always wanted to do this because I think it will add that tiny little bit of detail that makes something look like the studio model.
Right mouse click on the cylinder primitive and increase the longitude setting to 100. Left click the cylinder to create the primitive.
Toggle the grid mode on and choose the resize object tool.
When you resize the cylinder, remember to keep the left AND right mouse button depressed to maintain proportions.
If you need to make minute adjustments, you may right click on the grid mode tool to access it's options. I set mine to 0.01 and reduced my cylinder to be JUST a bit wider than the top sensor dome.
I'm looking forward to your take on all of this.
Now, line up the cylinder so that it just slightly bites into the top of the bridge dome. Select your bridge dome and use the Object Subtraction tool in order to cut into the top of the bridge structure.
Now, here's why we went to all this trouble.
We now get a "lip" to the top of the bridge. Now to create the sensor dome.
Call up another sphere primitive, resize and reposition your primitive to meet the drawings of the sensor AND make certain that it falls inside of our "lip".
Okay, you would think our bridge was done ... but you'd be wrong. In for a penny, in for a pound I always say. Of course people on the elevator always look at me funny when I say that. So, on with the tutorial.
Create another sphere, then choose the deformation tool. Right click the deformation tool to select it's options and deselect the X and Z planes. Click the top center of your new sphere and toggle the grid mode on. Push the highlighted sphere point up by one unit. It will resemble a Christmas Tree light (if you are as old as I am and remember actual lights instead of Christmas LED's)
Select the Object Selection tool to convert your light to an object. Keep the grid toggled on and select the Resize Object tool. Right mouse click the Resize Object tool and reset it to default settings of 0.2 for all three axis.
Hold down both mouse keys and shrink the light down to the size of the small dot (running light) on the side of the bridge.
Keep the grid mode on and select the Rotate Object tool. Select a forward view in one of the small New Perspetive windows.
Hold down your right mouse key and push up or pull down. Your light will spin 45 degrees by default. Move the light to one side of the bridge.
Now, left click the Copy tool.
Turn off your grid mode and left click the Move Object tool. Right mouse click the Move Object tool and turn off the Y and Z axis. Now, left click and move the duplicate light to the opposite side of the bridge. Turn on your grid mode then select the rotate object tool. Right mouse click and pull down twice to rotate the light in the opposite direction.
Now for the elevator ... uh, I mean turbo shaft!
I chose to make my cylindar 50 segments for smoothness and resized the object with the grid mode toggled on. Then I moved the cylindar into place using the side view tool.
Once in place and slightly lower than the actual elevator plans, right mouse click on the Bevel Tool.
Leave the Bevel distance (top tool) at 0.01 but change the Bevel angle from 45 degrees to 20 degrees.
Left click once on the top of the elevator shaft (edit points will turn green) and then left click once on the bevel tool. You will see the top of the elevator has risen slightly and reduced it's diameter slightly. Pretty good, but not enough.
Left click the Object Selection tool to complete the bevel and return the elevator to an object.
Right mouse click the Bevel tool again and change the angle to 40 degrees. There's nothing you can really do about the distance at this point, so leave it at 0.01.
Left click the newly beveled top of the elevator and then left click the bevel tool.
Left mouse click on the Point: Edit Faces tool.
Right mouse click on the same tool and turn off the Z and X planes. Now, lower the newly beveled roof of the elevator about half the distance that it had moved on its own.
Look at the render of the elevator above. The top "lip" of the elevator shaft is extraordinarily smooth! It looks like someone has taken a wooden dowel and sanded it. This is very much like what the original studio model looks like.
Choose the Object Selection tool to convert the editable points into an object.
Now, I have moved all the objects we have created to the same scene and used Alan's drawings to place everything together.
Here are the results thus far:
First I moved the bridge assembly (after gluing them all together and saving them as an object) to the B&C Deck scene. Positioned them, glued them together and saved them as a new object.
Here is how it compares thus far to the real thing.
Here is what it should look like:
And just like in the Beatles' song, "All together now!"
I use an object library to hold all my parts for a particular project.
just right click>insert or replace
it's got nice little rendered icons so I know what part is which
of course that's a TS5 feature that 3.2 does not have