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3D-= MKF random trek thread =- now with v-ray. . . .



  • scifiericscifieric660 Posts: 1,123Member
    Madkoifish, I've NEVER seen you put so much work into making something look "canon" before. Why with this ship? I'm simply curious.

    Terrific work, though! Simply excellent.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    edited May 4 #1833
    I did this for the TOS connie, just it was much more documented than this ship and well there is so much more going on.

    No point in a canon studio model replica if it is just close enough.
    Post edited by MadKoiFish on
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    edited May 5 #1834
    Dunno how much work I will get done as this just arrived after 2weeks sheesh damned co"R"vid. Nothing like being forced to buy toiletpaper from china too. -_-;'

    Thing is surprisingly heavy, has analog triggers and those 2 extra switch buttons so I can map those emulator menu functions there no more accidental FFD during games. lol Only drawback is the d-pad, least as I feel it there seems to be no central pin so like the crappy logi and other old pc controllers it means it is not going to be worth anything for fighters. T_T oddly none of the reviewers mention this exp as many are emulator channels who do a lot of fighters and SNK stuff. Also for those whom hate rubbery surfaces that go sticky plan to get some hat caps. The analogs are rubber coated. So for me Im gonna have to get some as rubber bits last about 6mo here. BUT it will be all so much better to have a wireless controller no more cats attacking the chords or worry about them shewing it to hell. All white samsung cables in this house are hamburger.


    Ok dpad isnt that bad but you can still push and activate random buttons but in SF3A for ppsspp it seems ok for the typical character, probably not good for those downfwdup types or any half circle characters. Hadookens etc are just as easy as on a SNES controller if not easier. Analog are small enough to use too vs the PS2 controllers or PSX ones where analog are too large in movement to easily use. AND yes, a proper stick would be best for these like they are for shumps. Plans to get one next but likely want to rip out the stock sticks on most as I doubt I want to dig out my bandsaw and what not to make one. That and well the same company makes a wireless one too. Rip out the stock lipo and stick a large one for RC in and it would likely last months. It was what I had planned until I found this pro unit which has software to alter any fucnction button in firmware soe hotkeys etc as well as the 4 analog controls having ramps and curves. Well worth the 49usd.

    All this from watching a few pi videos and looking at picking up a pi4 to just being lazy and using my media pc.

    What I really want to do is find a emulator for a system that has high rez 16X9 sprite fighters on. PSP the sprits are often badly scaled from a higher rez. And PS2 and DC often are stuck in 4X3 land. I do not mind my metal slug or other games in 4X3 but fighters seem soo tight after having that extra room. And yes I tried MAME but have had poor luck ever since it first came out. Odd lag to controller issues to random game bugs.

    If I got another I likely would go for the off white with burgundy buttons. The cool gray one sadly has those painful concave XY buttons. next trick is finding out what software will allow multiple controllers and what supports multiple Bluetooth. Strange is the bluetooth seems to have less lag than the wired ps2 controller using this penguin usb adapter. I dunno if they even sell that crap anymore.

    I am still debating if I will pick up a PS4 controller. And no I have avoided the xbox things as I hate those, least I really hated the old ones the size and layout are meathook only.

    Post edited by MadKoiFish on
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • GuerrillaGuerrilla477 HelsinkiPosts: 2,631Administrator
    Oh cool. I really like 8bitdo controllers. I have the old SNES one, but I've been eyeing the Pro as well since I've been streaming stuff over to my Nvidia Shield lately.

    I don't know what Samsung puts on their cables, but my cats are addicted to the white ones. The Note 10 came with a black cable and they're not nearly as interested in that one. :p
    Comco: i entered it manually in the back end
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  • lennier1lennier1247 Posts: 1,041Member
    Have fun!
    I've grown too accustomed to a PS3 controller, but I heard a lot of good stuff about their products.
  • FULCRUMFULCRUM2 Posts: 2Member
    These are the only photos of the 6ft Enterprise that are not from Star Trek Prop Authority They are all from the day of the auction and on 2 of them, someone decided to use a grey scale card. 32s6w4y05zpv.jpg
    az76x8mshl6c.jpg kucyabd4mtkz.jpg
    e9gr0bskfcol.jpg nhyvbjdqsa1f.jpg

    They were buried among other photos on a german site.

  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    edited May 6 #1838
    Yeah I dunno lost 4 of the white cables too but I was still worried for the PS2 ones. Heck I worry about most lately. These were all chewed while plugged in too as the samsung ones are some of a few that aurally reach the rated speeds on a hdd, not to mention the old phone. So far braided cables seem immune. It is I think mostly the one cat, Zoe. I am liking the controller a lot much heavier than expected. But the Dpad is a bit of a disappointment coming from sega and psx units with the pivot hat. I definitely think the G classic would be the best bet. The d pad looks flatter, less indents. They also should have used a blue or purple or even gray ink on the black one lol. It is less clunky in the grips than the images make it out to be.
    Also it is very solid. Unlike the old console controllers there is no creak in it. Likely cause of a buttload of clips vs screws, but it makes it feel nice. Just worry what I have to do when cleaning time comes.
    Yeah I had looked WAY back at ps3 too but the info I keep running against is "why not use xbox" and eugh. SO I could never figure out how well it worked. Also the prices lol. I was also put off of the ps4 units due to battery life being pretty bad. ATM looking for used is impossible as you cannot know what you will get in the mail. Hell even finding REAL ps4 controllers is pulling teeth most of what is on amazon are knockoffs, and I have heard people getting knockoffs from best buy.
    I have all those, maybe I should do a mass upload of my dir. Thanks anyways. The medgray needs some white balance lol. The one with the nacelle is probably the best for anyone wanting to match the generations paint. Though it lacks all gloss and refractive information. Apparently they did use some pearl and gloss/eggshell paints to give the panels a varied reflectance. If you have the brd you can see it in some shots.

    EWW the site auto removes some formatting. . . . yuck
    Post edited by MadKoiFish on
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • lennier1lennier1247 Posts: 1,041Member
    Well, there's always the option of solid third-party controllers, for example my secondary controller on the PC is a Saitek P3200, that's basically a 360 controller with PS3 button layout and there's its brother, the Saitek Cyborg V5 (the silver one in this image) where the left controls are a separate module, so you can switch between Playstation and Xbox button layout depending on your current mood.

  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    all xbox huge. As mentioned i cannot stand the xbox 360 etc microsoft controllers. The sape the layout the size.

    Also I would never touch anything from madcatz. Or however they spell the name. Might have improved over the years but they were one of the worst 3rd party companies.
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • Billynom8Billynom875 Posts: 43Member
    there are some good footage of the D on this YT vid.
    Nathan Rubricpubliusr
  • BrandenbergBrandenberg1201 CaliforniaPosts: 1,645Member
    MadKoiFish wrote: »
    I did this for the TOS connie, just it was much more documented than this ship and well there is so much more going on.

    No point in a canon studio model replica if it is just close enough.

    You said it man! Bravo on the work - it's inspiriong.
  • furswiftfurswift521 BrooklynPosts: 169Member
    edited May 8 #1843
    Billynom8 wrote: »
    there are some good footage of the D on this YT vid...

    @ 7:03 it looks like they blew some smoke around in the bussard collectors to animate them. Weird.

    Post edited by furswift on
    "You've scanned my vessel..."
  • lewisnivenlewisniven1062 UKPosts: 237Member
    furswift wrote: »
    Billynom8 wrote: »
    there are some good footage of the D on this YT vid...

    @ 7:03 it looks like they blew some smoke around in the bussard collectors to animate them. Weird.

    I'm sure I recall that they did a lot of testing with that but ditched it before they actually started shooting as it didn't resolve well on camera. Definitely can't make it out in the show.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    Spent the latter evening messing with the geo on the underside and neck shapes. Real PITA to see if I am getting the cross sections right. Tried using the deck by deck cutaways but that resulted in a not too fitting of a form. Also spent the time to clean up the wires.

    Some lines on the model to try to show the contours. I think they are looking alright.

    Billynom8FreakfurswiftashleytingerZoidZillaBrandenbergFULCRUMLizzy777srspicerBolianAdmiraland 1 other.
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • BrandenbergBrandenberg1201 CaliforniaPosts: 1,645Member
    The lines really show of what a good job you did on the mesh. Everything smooth and in order.
  • nightfevernightfever240 Posts: 547Member
    I was checking some references and recognized that the bridge dome is round on the model but oval on the bridge set.
    I saw you made it round and I suppose you will do something under that dome. Have you already made your final deal with that discrepancy?
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    I'm sticking to the round model part. ATM it is just bodged up overview texture of the bridge in there with opaque glass. Dunno if I will do anything beyond that as I really do not want to make a clear unit.
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • Hunter GHunter G211 Posts: 337Member
    That topology though! I'm jealous...
  • srspicersrspicer225 Posts: 165Member
    The secondary hull looks spot on!! I had to create it as a physical model and have all of the grid lines run perfectly horizontal and hit all of the shapes from a top view. Talk about nerve-wracking, look great to me!
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    edited June 4 #1851
    Heh 3week break? lol. Taking the time to make some refernce lines but it is a real pain blues are broken up and do not match and some of the ones on the model itself are inconsistent. So debate is to replicate it or not to and how to deal with those 8 or 9 super tall windows that overlap the grids 3ish decks above the torp "strip"

    I am using a screen cap of the original paint job vs attempting to eyeball the grids from the repainted model. Tried it for a few and gave up.
    The red line is NOT the final deck. It references the deck just above the one that has that large grouping of windows on the leading edge of the neck (11 windows?) I dunno how they oriented the vertical grids though. Being curved I am guessing in a dorsal projection or however looked good with tape when looking up at the saucer. Anyhow 9 "decks" from that grouping of windows down to the upper bit of the torp srtip.

    I do wonder how they judged the window length on a physical object vs in 3d as we can project things by working in side ortho. I guess maybe they projected lines onto the hull and went from there. OR, heh had a guy standing at a distance and gave feedback to when the windows all looked the same height from the side thus resulting in them getting taller as the hull got steeper towards the horizontal. (anyhow hope this make sense lol)

    AND yes below the enterprise decal there will be 3 windows not 2. Though I have spotted other "paintovers" tracking where vertical edges are going. UGh some of these windows dip below the deck below's window sets. Loads of these occur above the torp strip.

    Also left does not seem to match the right and I do not think I have a pre generations example of the left side.
    So, a super small update really as I spent more time looking at images and counting windows decks and such crap.

    Dunno if I will be on this tomorrow as I gotta figure out how to clone a win10 install so I can move this build to the media pc as I am fed up with the win8 fuckery that is worse than attempting to run win XP this day and age. That and I am sick of the horrible video management in win8, crushed the hell out of video vs 10 and even 7. Just want to avoid all the time hacking out all the spyware and BS settings needed in win10. Caught this machine wasting 9gigs of upload data over a 4day period.
    Post edited by MadKoiFish on
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • FreakFreak938 Posts: 4,083Member
    Good to see you are back at this.
  • SteelravenSteelraven171 Posts: 7Member
    Breaking lurk to let you know that the font you're looking for is a bold form of Microgramma.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    edited June 8 #1854
    microgramma has the wrong serifs, they might have started with it as a base but it is not correct to everything. I mentioned this a while back as base microgramma has multiple wrong shapes or sets and all has the wrong kerning ratios between some letters and numbers.


    Largest issue is how rounded the body of the text is in O S C D 0 and many other letters. A proper premade font might exist but it is not a publicly accessible one. Other similar ones are eurostile Arian etc. These latter ones have a closer squaring off of the letter verticals and horizontals but miss on other details.
    plain test S C O are much closer in this font. Sadly it is another one that is as a set is in the 500usd range.
    Federation starfleet comes the closest least for the outline text.
    But is useless for the non registry text.

    The Generations repaint is unknown how correct they are to the TV decals as many were changed or even left off. The tailed D and un-tailed D exists in the tv series. Excluding the 2ft and 4ft models.

    I use none of the book based font suggestions as almost all of them are off or just CLOSE. Better fonts are the fan made free ones out there but they all still need alteration. None of it will be much fun. . . heh.

    ALSO in all of this add in ADOBE sucks. Most of their stuff will not be accessible in anything but ADOBE product. I have a tonne of paid for fonts that I cannot use in max or other tools unless it is adobe based. Which now it is all rental ware I do not use anything adobe anymore.

    Post edited by MadKoiFish on
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • lennier1lennier1247 Posts: 1,041Member
    edited June 8 #1855
    Did you check the trial for Affinity Photo/Designer? They're striving towards plugin/format interface parity and doing a pretty good job so far.
    Post edited by lennier1 on
  • SteelravenSteelraven171 Posts: 7Member
    I see what you mean. I found a font that looks a lot closer called "Jefferies" here:

    I'm not entirely certain, but then excluding the border can throw things off, and you can't italicize it through normal means.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    edited June 9 #1857
    Yeah I have to figure out how to change the font name as I already have a jeffries that is the altered airborne font. Oh maybe not what shows up in max is jefferies Extended and is a odd mix of rounded corners and square ones.

    It might work as I probably have to uninstall the old one. Only thing I might question is it appears to have a rounded corner effect (what was used on the saucer reg)
    I figure no matter what I will likely have to use a vector tool to create the stencils and alter them manually to fit the use. Max lacks things like BOLD etc. Real annoyance as extruding out or other alterations as a spline or mesh do not work properly.


    I pretty much moved to SAI and clip studio and not looked back. I rarely use plugins and only ones I miss are my flares packs and topaz. All of which work in PSP7.2 (yes lol it still has the best JPG compressor) Only thing I might need in the future is a vector tool to replace illustrator. Actually what they did to illustrator in 2008/9 is what prompted me to start moving from adobe as every time I loaded illustrator I had to re activate it. Also found it auto updating and changing files without permission. Almost all adobe soft does this now as they automatically connect to 4 or 5 servers on start up. Sorry nope wares are not harming them enough to take that level of punishment as a customer since 1995.

    Actually the sad part is I looked at the "extras" wares provide to block these actions. EG the ips to block in hosts. Bypass annoying activation bs such as having to call in to get it activated at 3am to meet a deadline 9 hours away.

    I'll have to check it out and see.

    Post edited by MadKoiFish on
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    Not anything massive just changing the poly flow and some of the angles on bits of things here and there.

    The warp cut out area argument is flat or curved/scooped out.


    Time to move to the upper rear around the torp launcher. I think that area has been gone over for geo but flow is a bit ugly and I want to clear up all the flat areas of useless edges.

    Dunno if I will have this done in time for the original project, just not been feeling it for modeling. Not been back here much this desk area is filthy so much dust lol.
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    Ok thought maybe I should post some wires of the secondary. You can see where I have used smoothing groups to cut down on the density of the wires. I can later clear that whole set of loops off the mesh as it will not alter the shape. It also tightens up transitions some as well. So far though this technique is much harder to apply to this ship due to the forms of this ship. Also much harder as some of the topology is a guess and not easily planned for ahead of time.
    Really dislike the 2 dense points in the cutout but with how those shapes are formed it is hard to avoid those without having strange wire flow. There are some uglies as I did not want to loop some of the edges around the cut out so I just "ended" the loops. Most of these are involved with the notches in the trailing edge of the struts. Likely I will pull those back into the smoothing group area vs the forward area.
    You can see a few uglies around the torps and in the upper part of the hull around it. The whole area from the inpulse down to the torp is jokingly dense and completely unneeded but atm I just have to put up with it until I can get in and rip that all out manually. I might be able to do something about it while it is a subdiv object using smooting groups. Wont know until I have a look at it hard part is as it reaches the impulse and then ramps into the neck it needs to have a lateral curvature.
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    Wire of the smoothing grouping and a few renders to show how it has not affected the geo. Also extending loops and dead ends in places they can be removed easily later on. The spine area, I just couldn't do much for it as there are too many curves going on so it will mean a buttload of clean up and edge removal once I collapse the mesh. Everything just bunches up there and I do not want split edges along the length of the neck. (it is what creates those funny "eyes" like in the upper hull bulge near the torp launcher int he last post.



    Anyhow, I think I am very close to collapsing the mesh. Only place I feel uncomfortable is around the top of the neck where it joins the saucer. But I suppose I can patch things in when I get to that area if what I have now does not work. Well hell I am sure I will be detaching and patching parts at some point on this area of the ship.
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
  • MadKoiFishMadKoiFish2615 Right in the plumsPosts: 4,347Member
    edited June 18 #1861
    Ah also anyone have refs for these dumb bell stations? Most everything I see is comics game or fan made. Looking for detaild images of the original objects or anything lol Also considering a adapted regula 1 or whatever it was used for in a cobbled up extra offices starbase/DS?

    think this is from a book??
    game asset example

    these things are so far hard to scale one model makes it look fairly small another makes them huge.
    Post edited by MadKoiFish on
    Each day we draw closer to the end.
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