PracticalAdvice on a Connie model

James Midsen

Ok, I've finally actually finished this model's physical build, minus domes, and I'm trying to decide how to get the hull grey without greying in the spots where the sensor domes go:


Would masking tape do the job? And should I also cover the Bussard domes?

Randy Tjang

What's that made of?

James Midsen

High-Impact Styrene.

Randy Tjang

The colouring looks nice- how are you going to make the hull plating effect that's present in the original model?

James Midsen

I haven't painted it at all yet. That's the white that it came. I'm trying to figure out how to paint it. And as for the pattern, well... However I keep the paint out of the top and bottom dome spots would tell me how to do the rest. So does anybody know how I should be able to keep the paint from reaching the parts I don't want painted?

Jenny

First of all, I think you should be acquainted with [url=http:www.starshipmodeler.com]Starship Modeler[/url], where they're as passionate about building physical models as we here are about digital ones. Secondly, the technique I see described most often is masking with clear tape, but I imagine masking tape would work as well. Are you going to be air-brushing or brushing the paint on?

James Midsen

For the main Gunship grey, it's gonna be a modlling spray paint. As for bussards, deflector and windows, brush. Why?

Jenny

Because, I know you said this is a styrene model, but you should be aware that many resins are soluble by spray-paint solvents. Unless you're absolutely sure it's styrene, you'll want to be very careful about what spray paint you use. Test it on a sprue, first.

XFozzboute

You can always use liquid masking. You should be able to get it at any hobby shop.

James Midsen

It's styrene. If it isn't, then I'd love to know why the instruction manual lied And I tested it. So far, no disiolving plastic. So just use clear tape and I should be good?

Jenny

I think it'll be fine. :cool:

James Midsen

Awesome Thank you. I'll post some pics once it's painted.

MadKoiFish

Paints;
most modeling paints have instructions on them. As long as it is not lacquer you should be safe. I would probably still do a primer. (IE avoid RC model paints and some of the paints for Automotive models. The latter is not as common in the hobby store since most car guys will source from the automotive paint manu, these req special prep.

Rattle cans;
Make sure you warm the can in hot water. Hot paint atomizes better. best bet is to source a cheapo airbrush and compressed air form a cheap source, cans or even a innertube. It makes a huge difference. If not hold the can a decent distance 8" or so and mist it in a even stroke stopping and starting on each pass. Do not change direction while spraying.

Masking;
Id use liquid mask (make sure it is THICK enough) or vinyl tapes, often sold in sheets. This stuff can be heated slightly to conform to curves etc. And produces a much sharper line. Masking tape due to it's rough nature often leaves a jagged line. Make sure to have everything in a lint free enviroment and if you do use a rolled product do not place it's side on anything other than clean plastic or it will lift junk up from the sides of the roll. THe hull paneling can be done in the same way. Some sites DO sell template masks you just peel and stick.

Model; who's is this? Did polar lights while in my hibernation release a larger model of the TOS E? Smaller model is gray ugh snap fit (read heaps of filler putty and sanding)

James Midsen

It's the AMT re-release of their original TOS E.
Here's the paint:


And a test: