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Large Blood Angels Terminator

245

Posts

  • IRMLIRML176 Posts: 0Member
    your painting is great, I had heard about the salt technique before but I'd never seen it in action
  • DCBDCB171 Posts: 0Member
    There should be plenty of pics of the process in Meph's other thread with the large Blech Angels statue that is in his avatar pic.
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    *SLAP*
    Now that that's sorted, he's right indeed. My FW marine was even saltier at some point. ^^
    Aaaaand: desalted! :)
    Of course, as before with the FW Marine, the effect is by no means perfect, some touch-ups with red are needed here and there and of course more weathering will follow. But it's a solid base to work with.

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  • ArmondikovArmondikov0 Posts: 0Member
    Yeah, so I assume you're going to touch up where it wouldn't be as weathered, as on the chain-fist particularly it looks more like it's been splattered with silver rather than chipped away by wear and tear. But the effect is brilliant.
  • evil_genius_180evil_genius_180660 Posts: 8,463Member
    It's all part of a process that I find fascinating. I remember when you explained it all in that other project thread on 3DSciFi. :)

    Great stuff, I'm liking how that looks so far. It definitely looks like it's seen some action, I know it will even more so by the time you're done. :D
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Cheers guys! Yeah, I'll have to do some touch-ups with the airbrush here and there to fill some armour plates back up. But in any case the indentations that there are now because of the chipping will also show when covered with red again, adding some texture and realism to the model. Especially the chain fist needs tome work. I'm still wondering a bit If I should make it more red again, or just transform the 'splatters' into streaks to show that that think has really been tearing into enemy infantry and tanks alike...
  • FreakFreak451 Posts: 3,451Member
    Thats looking great!
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    After a long hiatus... Cheers mate!! :D As always, don't hold back on comments or critics. Any and all are welcome. ;)


    I'm looking at the helmet and I'm wondering If I should perhaps apply a facial marking like I had done on some ancient mini's. Might look good I think.
    I'll post two pics I took of the old mini's I'm talking about.

    What do you guys think? Facial marking or not? Any suggestions for face markings, or other small details are welcome. :)

    IMG_0054.jpg
    IMG_0060.jpg

    I'm actually thing to put a face marking along the lines of the T-H guy. That might look good, seeing as the large model has an extra little plate on the face compared to the ancient mini.

    So here's the progress on the big 'un! Al mayor areas that need to be black have been painted black and I've applied some sponge weathering on the edges. It might look rough at the moment, but once the hardcore weathering starts, it will be blended together more. I also just realizes that I probably need to apply any decals now, before I weather further and apply the oil paints.

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  • evil_genius_180evil_genius_180660 Posts: 8,463Member
    What exactly do you mean by "face marking?" A decal?

    The big one looks great so far. I always love that chipped and worn paint look that you do. :)
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Cheers mate.

    No decal, a pattern painted on the helmet. Such as two stripes over one eye, a 'mask' like the Lightning Claw one, or a vertical pattern like the Thunder Hammer.
  • DCBDCB171 Posts: 0Member
    Your first example facial marking looks pretty much like eyeshadow. Seems perfect for the Blood Emos.
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Ah yes, the dramatic, runny mascara look. :D
  • evil_genius_180evil_genius_180660 Posts: 8,463Member
    Meph wrote: »
    Cheers mate.

    No decal, a pattern painted on the helmet. Such as two stripes over one eye, a 'mask' like the Lightning Claw one, or a vertical pattern like the Thunder Hammer.

    Oh, gotcha. Yeah, some stripes on the eye and the vertical pattern both sound cool.
  • FreakFreak451 Posts: 3,451Member
    Sound like a great idea.

    I love what you have done with that big one!
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Cool, glad you're liking it. For facial marking, some stylish, slick, tribal like sign might look good as well perhaps... Hmmm, so many idea's.

    In the meantime, I though I'd post some high-res photos to show off the texture left behind by the salting. They're the full high-res ones, straight from the camera. 2592x1944 for some zoomy scrolly goodness.
    As you may have noticed before I didn't sift it that thoroughly this time compared to the FW Marine. But seeing the scale of the model I like the little stuff quite a lot. It add to the sense of weight and age of the parts.

    I'm also thinking that perhaps I should take a brush and add some slight metallic weathering in the recesses of the finger joints. It seems only logical that you'd get some wear where the finger joins slide over each other.
    Whaddayathink, go for it?

    High-Res One
    High-Res Two
    High-Res Three
  • publiusrpubliusr227 Posts: 1,175Member
    Such an evil looking helmet. Reminds me a bit of the character in Rob Zombies House of 1000 corpses...
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Hmmm, never saw that film. Perhaps I should... ^^

    After a long holiday season hiatus, I'm back on track. I've got some free time and I intend to spend a lot of it painting.

    But first up in my pipeline is the large scale terminator, who is in dire need for some lovin'. And a vertical stripe it became!

    Right now I've brought it up to the point where it's ready for masking so I can airbush on the bronze/golden metallics. I've also applied the decals as these will need weathering as well. As you can see I painted on all black area's, dappled on applied some weathering using a little ripped packing sponge from a models blister. I used dark grey and metallics, making sure the sponge was almost dry before dabbing it on. I also used a small brush to add some boltgun metal in some little recesses of joints, such as fingers and elbow joints.

    It may look a bit messy at the moment, but once the bronze-golden metallics are on, the whole thing will have a more balanced look, and after that I'll prep the model for some oil washes. These will do a lot to tie the whole look together.

    At the moment, the model's extras are put aside, such a the shoulder shields, hip shields, and gun. These I'll do separately as I still need to make some custom decals to go on those. I thought to add some more custom decals to the main model parts but frankly I wanted to get some stuff done and making custom decals in Photoshop would have put me back by a day or two.

    As always, if the photos are too scaled, just right-click, open in new tab for full resolution goodness. ;)
    Also, the lighting conditions outside are terrible, and it's freezing, so I was forced to take some photos inside, using some artificial light to boost the light quantity. Hence the somewhat dubious quality of the shots. there some glare and reflections, but I'm sure you get the gist.

    IMG_4589.JPG
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    And voila, my o so professional lighting setup and photo studio.

    IMG_4606.JPG

    My usual one outside is actually a whole lot better, I kid you not. I use that A3 sheet op paper to pull down as needed and block the direct sunlight. :D

    IMG_0398.jpg


    Bounce! Bounce!
  • ArmondikovArmondikov0 Posts: 0Member
    Beautiful. Are you going to hammer away at it to make some real dents or just happy with the paint work as it is?
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Well, I thought to rough it up a bit when I first got it but the sculptor recommended against using any power tools on it or drilling bullet impacts. Although the material feels rock hard and the parts have received a hefty bump or two already without any damage, there's always the rights you might create a fracture line when too much force is applied. And I'd hate to have a unique piece like that break apart in my hands.

    And hey, it's impenetrable terminator armour, the only thing that gets shot off is the paint anyways. :D
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    *Cough*Cough***Huaaarch!*Archkh*Archkh*Splfft*

    Hairball! Hairball! Ah... no, something else...

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  • ArmondikovArmondikov0 Posts: 0Member
    bow.GIF

    That is all.
  • DCBDCB171 Posts: 0Member
    Looking good, albeit a tad too much wear and tear for my tastes. If I was the Chapter Commander, I'd be putting all the servitors and tech priests in charge of suit maintenance to the chainsword.

    For the gold, did you apply washes to those areas to get the shading?
  • FreakFreak451 Posts: 3,451Member
    That is looking dam sweet!
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Cheers guys! Yeah, he's a bit battle-weary. ^^ I didn't want to make him too posh and shiny, but more grizzled and gritty from long campaigning without the care of a Techmarine.

    Applying the masking tape and -fluid took me well over two hours to apply. Scissors, tweezers, a tiny poking device, and a lot of patience. But it's sure worth it to then spray it like a madman instead of fiddling with a brush.

    I gave it a brown/tin mix undercoat, then I copiously applied hairspray and some rock salt. For the gold, I used the same paint I used on the FW Marine, basically an alcohol-based gold paint which I let dry out until just the pigmented paste was left and then thinned it with Vallejo acrylic thinner and the new brilliant discovery: Demineralized water, the kind used in ironing erm, irons. That's seriously brilliant stuff to thin your paints with, and costs next to nothing...

    As you can see from the pics, the contrast was a bit too harsh with the undercoat, so I sprayed on another thin layer of the gold paint to better blend in the effect.
    After that i lightly drybrushed it with Burnished Gold (I think, the palest of the GW golds) and some mithril silver mixed with gold.

    The shading was dead-easy thanks to Vallejo's brilliant smokey ink. Which for some reason is always rather thick for an ink. But seriously, it's brilliant. Part by part I coated the whole lot in the gooey smokey ink, and then... rubbed it off with a finger. That's it, just coat copiously and after a few seconds, just rub it off with a nekkid finger, and voila, instant patina.
    For the spiked vertical plates however, I did brush on some ink, heavily thinned with water, because no human finger is thin enough to get between the armour plates and the spikes.
  • ArmondikovArmondikov0 Posts: 0Member
    I'm surprised that demineralised water would make such a difference. Usually you only use it due to prolonged use or large quantities mean that you do get deposits, whereas the amount of water you'd use in a paint job, even a large one like this, would leave nothing behind at all.
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Yeah, I did notice a big difference in the way the paint handled. Somehow it seemed less gooey and didn't dry out the airbrush nozzle as fast while spraying. Or it could be psychosomatic... :)

    I've also read something from a guy who adds some pure alcohol to the mix to a ratio of about 1/10 - 1/15, with acrylic paints and water. I think I'll give that a go as well. I just need to go buy a bottle of pure alcohol because I'm sure not going to use my 2002 Glendronach for that... :D
  • ArmondikovArmondikov0 Posts: 0Member
    Meph wrote: »
    I just need to go buy a bottle of pure alcohol because I'm sure not going to use my 2002 Glendronach for that... :D

    But you would gain so many Cool Points for it.
  • DCBDCB171 Posts: 0Member
    Isn't another trick to add a dash of window washing fluid? I'm sure I've read about that with airbrushing on modelling sites in the past.
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    Cool points? I should get a lifesize golden statue if I used that delicious buttery single malt for airbrushing! Damn! North Korean bears and magpies would be dying from grief, and my neame you appear on the side of a holy mountain in enormous blazing runes. :D

    Hmm washing fluid, I've read that too. it's breaks up the surface tension of water, but I wouldn't use much more than the tiniest of drops as you don't want to go spraying foam. Then you'd have a whole different kind of party. :argh:
  • MephMeph171 Posts: 0Member
    So far I've been busy re-applying a decal on the right shin that got ripped off with the masking tape. . was stupid enough not to seal the model before sticking tape all over it... I also tore off a little piece of the top BA icon decal on the main body. but hey, that's insta-weathering. So applying the decal actually took some time, what with all the layers of Micro Sol and furious stabbing with a modeling knife.
    By the end of the weekend, the model will be sealed in Klear and have some oil paint applied.

    I took a pic...

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