did you try high build primer? I have used bondo filler and primered with rubbish testors primer without issues.
I used modeling paste a lot for painting. The real issue with it is the expansion contraction rates are very high. I have had the stuff shrink and crack off art over time. But this was over other acryl product and or wood substrate. Not sure how much the model plastic expands and contracts.
that forward hole is present on the 11' filming model. It was unlit AFIK, sadly I cannot find a image pre removal of the element in there, just post restoration.
Wow, I could have sworn I commented on this. Maybe the forum ate it.
Looking good, dude. Those grid lines definitely seem like a pain and a half.
@MKF: I know you can find images where that hole does exist, (I have some) but I've never seen it in any model shot from the series. And, in some of them, you can look right at that part of the model. It makes me wonder if they at least painted over it or covered it up after they removed the little bits that were there in the pilots. Maybe the restoration people uncovered it, or even somebody else who had the model before the Smithsonian got it.
It was not lit and even if it was a bit of frosted glass it wouldn't show up in the 60s stuff due to the rez and grain. Some good grain and itll just "go away" like those penciled grids. The images Eaves posted ages ago of the ship in the pilot dress before they chopped up the bridge and altered other things that area had a large black marking there and some other stuff.
To note the 33" model DID not have this hole. So I have read many claim this was some access hole made to added or maintain the lighting. The pilot version of the 11' had a single bulb in those trio of round holes on the saucer rim. That bulb was exposed like the other marker lights and the flanking holes had no light.
That area of the ship is hardly ever seen in any photos or even in the show itself. Almost all forward shots are from below. Anything that shows the ship from above in higher quality or publicity shots are of the 33" which lacks that detail.
Just because it is not seen in the grainy LQ film used on the 60s does not mean it is not there. Either way you asked and that is likely where it came from to be placed in the kit. It can be argued that it is not on the 33" and thus should not be rendered in a kit or 3dmodel as a element because of that and be valid. I do agree that that part should not be lit as if it was it would show up in filming.
Sorry to get off topic but maybe these things can help in some way when you get to this part of the model?? stretching it a bit aren't I? ;p
Yeah, now that you mention it, the shots I'm thinking of are probably from the 33-inch model. Even with '60s tech and grain, that area can be clearly seen in a number of shots in the remastered (normal remastered, not where they replaced the good stuff with CGI) episodes on DVD. However, I do recall them being from the 3rd season, and I think they mostly used the 33-inch model for shots done specifically for that season. This is why, when people talk about something being inaccurate, I like to say: "it depends on which episode you're watching."
Yeah saw over at 3d scifi would be able to point out those eps I think. Ran across a bunch of his research he has posted online bout the 33".
Dunno if I ever seen any of the remastered footage for TOS. I have some dvds (orange covers) but those are probably just LD conversions. Anyhow from what I remember everything was grainy and mushy enough to hide subtle details.
Looking for this stuff is made all the harder with that Jein model and all the large scale models over the years not to mention all the restos from the smith. Some images I had from a magazine I had though were the 11" are really the DS9 ep model. A real issue when some of the images I have are out of context!
Someday I should build one of these. heh.
really want one of these kits but I know it'll sit in the box. T_T I am terrible about finishing kits.
CBS Digital remastered them for the season releases and, if you've got an HDTV and up-converting player, they look pretty darn good, in my opinion. The only thing they did is what they still do, they made stuff too dark. However, you can still get a decent look at some of the details on the ship that weren't visible on the earlier DVD releases. (I had some of those)
I have to dig mine out as I have ripped all my dvds to hdd and play them that way. So without digging the cases out of the closet I only have a simple cover scan to go by. I do not have to sit through all the pgcs and other annoying locked content that makes playing dvds or blurays a 10min affair to get the the content you WANT to watch! I think it was WB that started putting ADVERTS into the dvds and locking playback to force you to watch them on something you paid for. Sheesh
Don't even get me started on that discussion. (one of my pet peeves) In fact, it may be best to get back on topic, as you were trying to do a couple posts ago.
Sorry I've been away from this thread for a few days. I actually don't mind the original filming models or details and debates about them discussed in my thread, so feel free. It will help me to ensure accuracy of my model. As to the circle on the forward saucer section, I suppose I will keep in there, as white frosted plastic. I heard it was on the original filming model as such, but it was not lit very well, and in fact covered up a bit (but not fully) by the weathering on the model, so the light coming through was dim, not as bright as the four other squares on the upper saucer.
I have read pages and pages about the 11ft model to ensure the accuracy of my build, almost to the point of obsession.
As for the progress on my model, I sprayed all the interiors black today for light blocking when the electronics go in. I then went over that black with flat white so the LEDs will bounce light around the interiors. No update pics yet, but hopefully soon.
Well, my afternoon just became disheartening. I have been spending most of my free time building this model, trying to get it done for Wonderfest. While putting finishing touches on the bottom saucer, I managed to have a mishap, which I tried to correct with acetone, only to make a bigger problem and ruin the whole piece. Chewed up the putty in my gridlines too. Oh well, hobbies are about learning, I have a spare kit I can pull another saucer from.
This does mean however, that I will have to completely redo the gridlines. Damn, I hate the decision to put those on there. This would have never happened.
Well, the day wasn't a total bust. I finished priming the secondary hull and most of the nacelle pieces. The secondary hulls and finished nacelle pieces are absolutely blemish free, which I'm very happy about. Smooth as can be. Still got to finish priming the inboard nacelle pieces, but that should be no problem. The secondary hull is now ready for electronic installations.
Wont some time and sanding rescue that part? You'd have to use sheet to repair those triangle ends but?
Funny Id probably fill those grids with bondo spot putty and let them show slightly rough (had this issue with a door panel on a rod model ages ago.) so I woudlnt have to pencil the grids in. Though then again it probably would smooth out on me and Id fail at that.
After the saucer mishap, I decided to work on the rest of the ship and swing back to the saucer toward the end. I got a lot of major and minor components primed or painted this weekend.
Looking great. I agree, it's hard to paint something that tiny neatly. I can't even imagine how you'd go about masking it, except to use a buttload of tiny strips of tape.
Hit a major milestone today. All major hull pieces (saucer, secondary hull, pylons, and nacelles) are primed and that means I am ready to get electronics installed. That is except for the lower saucer which I am bringing back up to spec.
I also have never frosted pieces before, so I used Valspar Frosting Spray from Lowes to frost up the inner bussard domes before I tried it on the outer domes. I must say it came out quite nice. The trick is spraying it in thin light coats, building up the frost slowly, and not all at once.
Some of you may remember a couple of months ago I had a disastrous acetone spill on my TOS Enterprise saucer AFTER filling all the gridlines. After extensive cleanup and completely refilling the gridlines again, the saucer is now ready for paint. I cannot express how glad I am this part of the process is done.
Stupid Polar Lights anyway. I wonder what possessed them to put those lines in there in the first place.
Well, if someone wanted to build the TOS Enterprise version from the DS9 episode "Trials and Tribble-ations", or the Defiant from Enterprise's "In a Mirror, Darkly", I can see the rationale behind it, because both of those had grids. It's "easier" (and I use that term loosely, believe me) to fill the grids in than it is to scribe them into the plastic if you want them.
Well, if someone wanted to build the TOS Enterprise version from the DS9 episode "Trials and Tribble-ations", or the Defiant from Enterprise's "In a Mirror, Darkly", I can see the rationale behind it, because both of those had grids. It's "easier" (and I use that term loosely, believe me) to fill the grids in than it is to scribe them into the plastic if you want them.
I still curse them for doing it, though.
I thought the Defiant in In a Mirror, Darkly just had bump mapped paneling applied, not engraved lines. You can't see them from all angles. But, I could be wrong. I thought about Greg Jein's Enterprise model and I guess, if you really want to make that, you're good to go.
Posts
I used modeling paste a lot for painting. The real issue with it is the expansion contraction rates are very high. I have had the stuff shrink and crack off art over time. But this was over other acryl product and or wood substrate. Not sure how much the model plastic expands and contracts.
that forward hole is present on the 11' filming model. It was unlit AFIK, sadly I cannot find a image pre removal of the element in there, just post restoration.
Looking good, dude. Those grid lines definitely seem like a pain and a half.
@MKF: I know you can find images where that hole does exist, (I have some) but I've never seen it in any model shot from the series. And, in some of them, you can look right at that part of the model. It makes me wonder if they at least painted over it or covered it up after they removed the little bits that were there in the pilots. Maybe the restoration people uncovered it, or even somebody else who had the model before the Smithsonian got it.
To note the 33" model DID not have this hole. So I have read many claim this was some access hole made to added or maintain the lighting. The pilot version of the 11' had a single bulb in those trio of round holes on the saucer rim. That bulb was exposed like the other marker lights and the flanking holes had no light.
http://johneaves.wordpress.com/2009/04/03/from-the-os-scrapbook/
http://johneaves.wordpress.com/2009/04/02/more-of-the-glory-days/
This image is the model as it arrived and was reassembled at the smith back in 74 prior to any of the various restos
The circle is evident in this photo.
http://en.memory-alpha.org/wiki/Constitution_class_model_%28original%29 Article it is from.
That area of the ship is hardly ever seen in any photos or even in the show itself. Almost all forward shots are from below. Anything that shows the ship from above in higher quality or publicity shots are of the 33" which lacks that detail.
Just because it is not seen in the grainy LQ film used on the 60s does not mean it is not there. Either way you asked and that is likely where it came from to be placed in the kit. It can be argued that it is not on the 33" and thus should not be rendered in a kit or 3dmodel as a element because of that and be valid. I do agree that that part should not be lit as if it was it would show up in filming.
Sorry to get off topic but maybe these things can help in some way when you get to this part of the model?? stretching it a bit aren't I? ;p
Dunno if I ever seen any of the remastered footage for TOS. I have some dvds (orange covers) but those are probably just LD conversions. Anyhow from what I remember everything was grainy and mushy enough to hide subtle details.
Looking for this stuff is made all the harder with that Jein model and all the large scale models over the years not to mention all the restos from the smith. Some images I had from a magazine I had though were the 11" are really the DS9 ep model. A real issue when some of the images I have are out of context!
Someday I should build one of these. heh.
really want one of these kits but I know it'll sit in the box. T_T I am terrible about finishing kits.
I have read pages and pages about the 11ft model to ensure the accuracy of my build, almost to the point of obsession.
As for the progress on my model, I sprayed all the interiors black today for light blocking when the electronics go in. I then went over that black with flat white so the LEDs will bounce light around the interiors. No update pics yet, but hopefully soon.
This does mean however, that I will have to completely redo the gridlines. Damn, I hate the decision to put those on there. This would have never happened.
Any plans to build a "battle-damaged" model now?
Funny Id probably fill those grids with bondo spot putty and let them show slightly rough (had this issue with a door panel on a rod model ages ago.) so I woudlnt have to pencil the grids in. Though then again it probably would smooth out on me and Id fail at that.
Once more unto the breach, dear friends...
I also have never frosted pieces before, so I used Valspar Frosting Spray from Lowes to frost up the inner bussard domes before I tried it on the outer domes. I must say it came out quite nice. The trick is spraying it in thin light coats, building up the frost slowly, and not all at once.
Well, if someone wanted to build the TOS Enterprise version from the DS9 episode "Trials and Tribble-ations", or the Defiant from Enterprise's "In a Mirror, Darkly", I can see the rationale behind it, because both of those had grids. It's "easier" (and I use that term loosely, believe me) to fill the grids in than it is to scribe them into the plastic if you want them.
I still curse them for doing it, though.
I thought the Defiant in In a Mirror, Darkly just had bump mapped paneling applied, not engraved lines. You can't see them from all angles. But, I could be wrong. I thought about Greg Jein's Enterprise model and I guess, if you really want to make that, you're good to go.